GUIDE: The Correct Way to Light Your Homepad

OI!! · Trick Member Joined: 13 May 2006 Location: Sun Valley, Nv

I have a few problems and I need help.

I tried the wiring that Frosty555 showed and the pad worked fine until I unplugged the transformer from the power outlet to keep from wasting energy, and my controller overheated and crapped out.

After that I tried the Pop'n wiring that Eradicator brought up and, once again, the controller doesn't work, except that this time, a voltage drop across the buttons occurred.

Anybody got ideas on why my controllers keep frying and how to wire the damn thing so I can play without plugging the pad into a wall?
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OI!! >o<

idConstruct · Trick Member Joined: 12 Mar 2007 Location: Green Bay, WI

are you sure the diodes protecting the controller powerful enough?
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OI!! · Trick Member Joined: 13 May 2006 Location: Sun Valley, Nv

Yeah. They are rated for fifty volts about-ish (decided to go with what they had).

The weird thing was that the problems didn't start until I unplugged the transformer (power supply for the lights); before that the pad worked pretty well.
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OI!! >o<

idConstruct · Trick Member Joined: 12 Mar 2007 Location: Green Bay, WI

i'm more worried about amperage actually... i noticed that diodes typically have a low amperage rating... it was just a guess though

its possible that the current was low enough that it didnt burn immediately... and that it might have burned even with the adapter plugged in still...

if not, i'm out of suggestions

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xerox personality · Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 5:56 pm Post subject:

Just a quick question, has anyone else used 240v bulbs running off mains? It is possible to do using solid state relays (which is the most expensive part for a bulb design) and its very easy to implement.
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RespectJSB · Posted: Thu May 10, 2007 12:18 pm Post subject:

OI:
I haven't had any problems with my lighted pad. I keep the transformer plugged in all the time (I wasnt aware it would waste power if nothing was even drawing power.....?), however I do disconnect the pad from the transformer after play.

i'm no electrical expert i didnt even know what a diode was before i read this thread

but Ive taken a crash course and am a quick learner so maybe i can try to help troubleshoot.
-what kind/size/# of lights are you using?
-what kind of pad and what kind of controller are you using? in the homepad forum many many pages ago, there was a lot of discussion of fried boxes due to static buildup (among other things?)
-do you have access to a semi-decent multitester that has a "diode check" function? this would (obviously) let you know if one or more of your diodes are fried
-have you carefully reviewed all your wiring? its pretty easy to connect a wire to the wrong end of a diode or something like that

KO

OI!! · Trick Member Joined: 13 May 2006 Location: Sun Valley, Nv

Well, I just received my shipment of PS1 controllers yesterday and hooked one of them up and now the pad seems to work fine. I'm still using the second wiring method.

I think I fried the second controller when I soldered it to the wires. The first one... I'm not so sure about... Maybe it just sucked

It seems that the best controllers for this type of pad is the original PS1 type of controller (I had used Dual shocks for the PS1 before).
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OI!! >o<

RespectJSB · Posted: Fri May 18, 2007 7:47 am Post subject:

good to hear everything is working ok again.

I can't find PS1 controllers anywhere, so I use softpad control boxes for my pads, never had any problems with them frying.

I think PS2 controllers are not good for DDR pad building because of those pressure sensitive contacts or whatever.

KO

FirstClass · Trick Member Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Location: London, UK

Hi, I was just looking at the circuit diagrams as I am planning to add cold cathode lightings in my new dance pad. To me, the use of diodes seems rather questionable; as I know it, rectifier diodes stop currents from flowing the wrong way, the same context as a one way road.

I can see that both the controller and lights share the same sensor and according to frosty's post, the diodes will stop the lighting current from frying out the controller. Personally I dont see how this is possible as according to the diagram, both sources share the same "wire" so it seems possible that the lighting current can flow directly to the controller circuit and vice versa where the junctions are. The diodes only gives the "directional sign" for the current (i.e. block current from flowing the wrong way). So is it possible for currents to end up travelling like this?

I need some enlightenment on this matter please as Im not an expert on electronic.

idConstruct · Trick Member Joined: 12 Mar 2007 Location: Green Bay, WI

Quote from a quote I quoted on page 3:

SuRfReAk · Trick Member Joined: 19 Dec 2004

Kudos, Frosty. I haven't been on these forums in... wow, almost two years, I think. I just fixed one of my old pads and am finishing up my platform.

People were just starting to really troubleshoot lighting when I left- now my light-less pad just feels so... dark (& unsatisfying). Good thing my girlfriend's dad is an electrician! I''ll definitely be experimenting with your design.
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Get up, get out, go surf!

FirstClass · Trick Member Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Location: London, UK

Hi,

I just thought that I'll try to install some lights in my pad over the easter Holidays and I am already having some problems. I followed the lighting diagram (or I think I am at least) and tried to tie some diodes to the controller circuit, however my arrow panel does not work after I put the wires through the diode.

I am working with a strip board and I am almost certain that the circuit is wired directly, but for some reason, doesnt work.

Can anybody see what I might have done wrong?

idConstruct · Trick Member Joined: 12 Mar 2007 Location: Green Bay, WI

Two things:

1) where is your power? It looks like you're trying to power your lights with your controller.

2) Disregarding #1 and assuming red is power (+) and blue is ground, the diode on your blue wire is unnecessary (although it still shouldn't cause problems)

Referencing my diagram once again:

g=ground L=left D=down R=right U=up (from controller)

If you can't read it very well, it basically means you
1) tie the positive terminals from the controller and the battery together (with a diode on the line from the controller to prevent damage)
2) Tie the grounds from the battery and the controller together, then
3) Put a switch between the two (ie: your panel sensors)
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FirstClass · Trick Member Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Location: London, UK

Thanks for the help IdConstruct.

I've not connected the lights yet, I was doing the controller diodes. I've looked at your diagram and tried to use a single diode instead of two however it still doesnt seem to work. I've even tried to connect the diode back to front, but obviously doesnt work.

I've tried to fiddle with it for 3 hours and didnt acheive anything... I've given up with this method

Im gonna get another set of sensors dedicated for lights tomorrow from the hardware store.

Rubis · Basic Member Joined: 14 Jun 2007

Is the ground leading back to the controller even necessary? It would require your lights to be plugged in for the buttons to work, but then you would only need two diodes for sure.

Rubis · Basic Member Joined: 14 Jun 2007

EDIT: double post. sorry.

devosbi · Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 3:12 am Post subject:

idConstruct · Trick Member Joined: 12 Mar 2007 Location: Green Bay, WI

To quote myself once again...

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

Resistors are built into PS2 and USB controllers to prevent them from frying from the power output of the port, so like idConstruct said, you don't need resistors except if you're wiring a controller for a system without powered ports.

However, you still need the diode from the controller's ground, because there isn't a resistor there and you WILL FRY YOUR CHIP IF YOU DON'T.

I know a guy with a master's in electrical engineering who I'm going to talk to about whether or not the DC + diode is necessary; I'm pretty sure it's not, but I don't want to be blowin' up batteries/wall outlets OR wasting money, so I'm just going to ask him next time I see him.
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I used to be active here lol

Szalkow · Trick Member Joined: 09 May 2008

I've been tooling away on my electronics the last couple of days. I originally thought about using a DPST switch (basic on-off switch) to disconnect the power source from the rest of the circuit when I wanted to use the pad without lights and without a phantom power drain. Instead, I've decided to use a female socket with an external DC adapter - meaning the pad has a "POWAR GOEZ IN HEER" plug socket like on a laptop computer. This means you can disconnect the power pack entirely and it will also allow the pad to work without the lights. Anyone else tried this?